Flat Woven Fabric, this seemingly simple warp and weft interweaving structure actually contains a delicate balance of material science and aerodynamics. Behind its "thin but not transparent" appearance is the synergy of microstructure, fiber properties and process parameters, which together weave the magic of breathability. The mystery of the breathability of plain fabric begins with its unique pore geometry. Unlike satin or twill, the warp and weft of plain fabric strictly alternate up and down to form a regular diamond pore network. The distribution and size of the pores directly depend on the warp and weft density - the number of yarns per unit length. When the density reaches a critical value, the equivalent diameter of the pores will shrink to less than 0.02 mm, resulting in a "capillary closure effect". This phenomenon means that even if the fabric is as thin as a cicada's wing, dense pores may hinder the free flow of air, forming a counterintuitive performance of breathability.
To verify this theory, the researchers constructed an air flow model of plain fabrics of different densities through computational fluid dynamics (CFD) simulation. The results show that the air resistance coefficient of high-density fabrics can reach 0.83, close to the laminar state, while the resistance coefficient of loose structures is only 0.21. This means that at the same thickness, high-density plain fabrics may have too small pores, resulting in a significant decrease in air permeability, or even a "thin but not permeable" phenomenon. The choice of fiber materials further exacerbates this contradiction. The application of ultra-fine denier fibers is a solution to pursue lightness and thinness, but it unexpectedly introduces new air permeability problems. Take 75D/72F ultra-fine polyester fibers as an example. This fiber can be woven into a cicada wing fabric with a gram weight of only 8 grams per square meter, but due to its multi-single filament structure, the actual porosity is only 42%, far lower than the 68% of coarse denier fibers. This seemingly contradictory physical property is actually a trade-off between fiber fineness and porosity.
To break through this limitation, material engineers developed special-shaped cross-section fiber technology. The introduction of trilobal cross-section fibers increased pore connectivity by 37%, and the air permeability increased by 1.8 times at the same gram weight. This design optimizes the geometry of the pores, effectively improving the air circulation efficiency while maintaining the thinness of the fabric, and provides a new idea for solving the paradox of "thin but not permeable". Precise control of process parameters is the key to balancing air permeability and structural strength. Through experiments, researchers established a correlation model between air permeability and structural parameters: Q = 0.87×(T/D)0.65×(P/S)-1.2. Among them, Q is air permeability, T is yarn fineness, D is density, P is porosity, and S is fabric weight. This formula reveals the nonlinear relationship between the parameters and provides a theoretical basis for process design. In actual production, when the weight is less than 30 grams/square meter, the warp and weft density must be controlled within 60×60 roots/cm, otherwise the air permeability will decrease exponentially.
The breathable magic of Flat Woven Fabric has been extremely demonstrated in the field of medical protection. In view of the characteristic of SARS-CoV-2 virus aerosol particle size of about 0.1 micron, ultra-high density plain fabric (120×120 strands/cm) combined with electrostatic electret treatment achieves a filtration efficiency of 99.97% while maintaining an air permeability of 50 liters/m2/s. This design enhances the filtration effect through charge adsorption, while the dense pore structure can still ensure air circulation, solving the contradiction between high protection and breathability. In the field of sportswear, gradient density structure has become an innovative direction. By using low-density weaving (45×45 strands/cm) in sweat-prone areas such as the armpits and high-density weaving (65×65 strands/cm) on the back, zoned air permeability management is achieved at a thickness of 15 grams/m2. This intelligent design makes plain fabric no longer a passive shielding material, but an actively adjustable "breathing interface".